Vienna Part 6 ~The National Library

Reinthaler’s Beisl

One of our tour guides suggested that to find a more authentic good Austrian restaurant we should stay off the large streets and follow some of the narrower side streets in Vienna. We took her advice and found Reinthaler’s Beisl after our tour of Schönbrunn Palace on Friday morning, March 6th.

At first we were sharing a table with an older woman who was finishing up her lunch. The restaurant was filled with (from what we could tell) locals not tourists.

We shared an order of schnitzel and it was the perfect amount for us after our ‘appetizer’ of apple strudel at the Palace.

This print above was in the Public Domain so I’m sharing it here. It’s an old and very cool print of the outside of the National Library of Austria in Vienna.

I took this photo above as we passed the library on our carriage ride. I didn’t know as we passed that this was the library.

After our great lunch we ventured out on foot to find the library. After a few twists and turns we made it. We got a senior discount for entry.

It was a jaw dropping experience to walk around and take it all in. If you would like to learn more click on this link.

Europe’s largest Baroque library houses over 200,000 historic books on its richly decorated wooden shelves. The State Hall is rightly one of the most beautiful library rooms in the world.

Secret bookshelf doors were a fun surprise, too.

We were glad we could visit this beautiful library.

After the library we made our way to the designated bus shuttle service that would take us back to the river boat. We would leave Vienna for our final leg back to Budapest on this evening.

Vienna Part 5- Schönbrunn Palace

After breakfast aboard the AmaMagna on Friday March 6th we had a morning excursion to Schönbrunn Palace.

The palace is an exquisite example of Baroque architecture and opulence, illustrating the tastes, interests and aspirations of successive Habsburg monarchs. Built as a summer residence of the Habsburg Emperors and spanning an astounding 1441 rooms, this Rococo palace soon became one of their favorite homes. 

We entered the Grand or Great Gallery.

The most significant official event to have taken place in the Great Gallery in the international context was the legendary encounter between US President John F. Kennedy and the Soviet Prime Minister Nikita Khrushchev in 1961.

The Great Gallery is the palace’s ceremonial hall and is not merely the architectural centrepiece of the palace: its decorative programme glorifies Habsburg rule under Maria Theresa.

One of the frescoes fell victim to a bomb dropped in April 1945, in the final days of the Second World War. It was replaced with a copy painted by Paul Reckendorfer and Carl Krall in 1947/48.

The chandeliers seen in the Great Gallery today are electrified versions of those that originally held candles, maintaining the historic aesthetic with modern technology. The link to the Great Gallery above has descriptions of the ceiling frescoes.

There I am alongside the man with the red hat. 🙂

As soon as the tour of the palace was over we made our way to another building that housed a restaurant that served the Palace’s famous Apple Strudel still baked in the Palace ovens in the basement. We had limited time before we had to be back at the bus.

We had another ‘great minds think alike’ moment with the girls from Oklahoma and Colorado. We took each others photos.

Our first apple strudel in Austria.

It was as good as it looks!!

We had an option to be dropped off in town instead of going all the way back to the boat and that is what we chose to do. There would be shuttle buses available downtown every half-hour to go back to the boat from 2:00 until the last shuttle at 4:00.

We wanted to find a authentic lunch spot and see some things on our own for the rest of the afternoon. That will be my final post for Vienna, Austria.

 

Vienna Part 4 ~The House of Strauss

On Thursday evening, March 5th we had signed up for a special excursion that wasn’t part of our ‘package deal’. Being in Vienna we thought it would be a shame not to experience the music they are historically known for. Here is what our ‘daily cruiser’ said, There is no finer place to attend a classical concert than in Vienna, the “Music Capital of the World.” This unforgettable experience will be a mixture of the most popular compositions of Vienna’s favorite and most famed composers–as presented by local musicians.

I’m adding this commentary from the program we were given on this evening in Vienna.

Vienna, known as the world capital of music, tells an unforgettable story that comes to life here. The Strauss Hall is the last original concert hall in the world where all four geniuses of the Strauss dynasty–Johann Strauss Sr., Johann Strauss Jr., Josef, and Eduard Strauss–personally performed. Here, the aura of this history is still palpable. The hall’s exceptional acoustics, the faithful restoration of the historic building, and the seamless integration of modern design make this venue an extraordinary cultural experience.

In the museum you could take this interactive questionnaire that would match your preferences to a piece of music. This was my match.

When we purchased the tickets for this extra excursion we had something different in mind in our heads. We thought that we would be in a large concert hall with many more live instruments, etc.

We were surprised by this venue. The concert itself was with twelve or so musicians (House of Strauss Orchestra) and their music was enhanced in some way. The musicians were exceptional and with the enhancement it came across as if there were several more musicians. The soloist was excellent. The seating, although authentic, was not comfortable. We paid 99e or about $116 U.S. each for this excursion.

We heard pieces from Johann Strauss II, Wolgang Amadeus Mozart, Johann Strauss I, and Josef Strauss.

There was a museum in the venue that we were able to visit and most of my photos are from the museum.

I mentioned before that bus rides in Vienna were long and circuitous. It seemed like we were traveling so far to get to this venue but in reality it was only four kilometers from the dock.

Meanwhile in the good ole U.S.A….

Back to the Present: With our daily sunshine lately, spring growth is thriving. We are spending hours on our acreage mowing and battling weeds. The birds, so many birds, are enjoying our sprinklers since we’ve had to start watering earlier than usual with fewer Spring rains. We’ve had daily visits from birds, deer, turkeys, and of course our resident quail. Hummingbirds have returned, too!

Happy Cinco de Mayo to you all!

Vienna Part 3 ~ St. Stephen’s Cathedral

After our carriage ride on Thursday March 5th we followed our tour guide to the center of the city ending our tour with St. Stephen’s Cathedral. In the first photos below you can see the steeple of the church.

This was a very busy central section of Vienna with shops and restaurants and cafes.

A different reminder of what Austria and Vienna are famous for. Later in the evening of this day we would be attending a concert at the House of Strauss.

St. Stephen’s Cathedral is not only Austria’s most important Gothic building. The Steffl, as it is affectionately known in Vienna, is much more than that. It is a landmark, a symbol of identity and synonymous with the reconstruction of the Republic after the Second World War. Construction of St. Stephen’s Cathedral began in the 12th century and its interior changed repeatedly over the centuries until it was finally given its current Baroque appearance. The tallest of its four towers is the south tower at 136 meters. The tower room, from which there is a gigantic view across Vienna, is reached via 343 steps. A total of 13 bells hang here. However, the best known of them, the Pummerin, hangs in the 68 meter-tall north tower. It is the second-biggest free-swinging chimed church bell in Europe.

I added a link to the details on the roof.

On the roof of St. Stephen’s Cathedral, colorful roof tiles were laid to create the Royal and Imperial double-headed eagle and the coat of arms of the city of Vienna.

At this point our guide left us on our own for a time before she would return and meet us to take us back to our bus stop for the return to the boat.

So many statues and gargoyles on the outer walls of the cathedral.

From a video by Rick Steve’s on St. Stephen’s Cathedral,

The ornate nave is Gothic with a Baroque overlay. While the columns support the roof, they also tell a story. Richly populated with statues, they make a saintly parade that leads right up to the high altar…

The Gothic pulpit, carved from sandstone, is a masterpiece.

I took this photo of the painting but I could not find a description anywhere. Is it supposed to be Stephen?

This code ‘O5’ is placed at the right side of the main entrance of St Stephen’s Cathedral. It was the code of an Austrian resistance group during World War II. It stands for Ö (Österreich) built by O and the 5th letter of the alphabet (= OE).

Originally the code was just painted but after World War II it has been engraved and covered by a transparent plate.

On the way back to our bus stop we saw another interesting plaque.

President John F. Kennedy met Soviet Premier Nikita Khrushchev in Vienna, Austria, on June 3-4, 1961, for a 2-day summit aimed at easing Cold War tensions. The meeting was contentious, with Khrushchev bullying the new president, particularly over the status of divided Berlin. The summit failed to produce agreements, leading to heightened tensions.

Kudos to guides who know about these details in cities because most probably on our own we would miss them totally.

There are so many churches in Vienna that I would have liked to visit.

This was another beautiful winter day on our river cruise.

We made it back to the bus and back to the Danube where the AmaMagna was docked. On this night we would have an earlier dinner because we were booked for a concert in the evening at The House of Strauss.

 

Vienna Part 2 ~ Carriage Ride

Our driver was determined to take a lot of photos of us in the carriage. The fun part is that we were paired with the girls we met in Cesky Krumlov from Oklahoma and Colorado for this ride through the streets of Vienna.

Looking behind at the other carriages.

There was no commentary on our ride so we weren’t sure of what we were seeing but we enjoyed the architecture, the courts and streets we clip clopped through.

 

Kirche am hof, Vienna

Kirche am Hof Vienna (Catholic Church)

When the Carriage Ride was over we met up with our tour guide again and walked through some of the areas we just clip clopped through to St. Stevens Cathedral.

That will have to be another post.

 

Vienna Part 1

On Thursday March 5th our arrival to Vienna would be in the early afternoon. We enjoyed our usual breakfast on board and we also had lunch on board before we had our first excursion into Vienna, an Imperial Vienna tour and carriage ride. Before we docked, we were on the upper deck of the boat and it was fascinating to watch the boat dock in a kind of parallel parking move between two other cruise ships.

There were some bridges we went under where if we were on the upper deck we were advised to duck. It was eerie going under.  I took videos but I am unable to add them here.

The more modern side of Vienna on the opposite side of the Danube from where we docked overnight. After lunch we grabbed our headsets for our first excursion into Old Vienna. A frustrating part of navigating these old cities in a bus is the miles you have to travel in a round about way to get to a designated bus stop. In hindsight walking into and around these cities would be a better option if you are fit and able. Staying in the city center would also be a good option.

Franz Joseph I or Francis Joseph I was Emperor of Austria, King of Hungary, and the ruler of the other states of the Habsburg monarchy from 2 December 1848 until his death in 1916

Vienna’s imperial history is dominated by the Habsburg dynasty, which ruled for over 600 years (1278–1918)l. In their reign they transformed the city from a Roman outpost (Vindobona) into the glittering capital of the Holy Roman, Austrian, and Austro-Hungarian Empires. As a central European power hub, it became a global center of culture, music, and Baroque architecture.

We heard about the Habsburg dynasty everywhere we turned. Not surprising when you consider the extent of their reign.

The Imperial Palace or Hofburg Palace. If there was one day Austria would like never to have happened, it might be March 15th, 1938. A distinct low point for the country: the day Hitler proclaimed the Anschluss with Germany from the balcony (actually a terrace) of the Neue Burg. That balcony remains closed off to any visitors.

The Kaiser Franz II/I statue is a prominent 1846 bronze monument located in the inner courtyard of the Hofburg Palace in Vienna. Designed by Pompeo Marchesi, it honors Francis II, the last Holy Roman Emperor and first Emperor of Austria, featuring him in Roman attire, surrounded by figures representing Religion, Peace, Justice, and Strength

A huge equestrian statue dominates Heldenplatz square on one side of Vienna’s Hofburg palace complex. The monument honours the first man to hand Napoleon a significant military defeat: Archduke Karl.

Eugene of Savoy (1663–1736), one of the most successful military commanders in modern European history, rose to the highest offices of state at the imperial court in Vienna. Born in Paris to aristocratic Italian parents, Eugene grew up around the French court of King Louis XIV, who rejected him for service in the French army. Eugene moved to Austria and transferred his loyalty to the Habsburg Monarchy. He secured his European-wide fame with a decisive victory against the Ottomans at the Battle of Zenta in 1697. Not only did he break the westward thrust of the Ottomans, liberating central Europe after a century and a half of Turkish occupation, but he also helped to save the Habsburg Empire from French conquest.

Habsburgs in the Hofburg Palace. All the burgs can get confusing.

After seeing these inner courts and outer squares and listening to so much amazing history it was time for our Carriage Ride. I’ll save what we saw from the carriage for another post.

Back to the present on this last day of April in 2026. Our Spring mowing has started in earnest and we are considering what to do with our weeds. Our underground critters are a worrisome concern as they are multiplying. It would be fascinating to see their underground world. It’s not all rosy to own property but we are thankful nevertheless.

 

Český Krumlov ~Part 2

Continuing our time in Český Krumlov on Wednesday March 4th, after we broke off from our tour group we made our way to the Tavern of Two Maries.

This short door on the left side was the entrance to the Tavern. We opened the door hesitantly.

There was no welcome party as we entered, in fact we wondered if they were open. As we considered which way to turn a tall woman appeared and pointed us upstairs, upstairs. We went all the way to the top and then she caught us and pointed downstairs. We had gone up one floor too many.

Whew! We made it into the wall of tapestries dining room.

I’m never quite sure what to do with my hands when posing for a photo.

The two gals sitting behind us were also from our cruise and this encounter was the beginning of a few more where we would look at each other and say, “Great minds think alike.” We found out over lunch that these two were friends from their youth. Their mom’s were best friends and their moms had taken this cruise in the past and they decided to join up and do this very cruise in honor of their moms who since were both deceased. What a sweet journey they were on. One of them lives in Oklahoma and the other in Colorado.

Our tour guide suggested ordering the Feast but to make sure we only ordered one and it would be plenty to share. We ordered the Old Bohemian Feast for one with rabbit meat.

Two house beers, a light draft and dark draft.

After lunch we first headed to the main square to get our bearings for where we would meet up with the tour group again for our departure.

Just as we imagined, it was not difficult to find the main square, Svornosti, in old town.

At the heart of the Old Town is the main square, lined with a mix of Renaissance and Baroque homes of burghers (all built on 12th-century Gothic foundations). Lékárna, with a fine red Baroque facade on the lower corner of the square, is still a pharmacy, as it has been since 1620.

The main artistic landmark of the square is the plague column topped with the statue of the Virgin Mary and eight saints, the patron saints of the town and believed protectors against plague. In the upper row there are statues of St. Wenceslas, St. Vitus, St. John Evangelist, St. Judas Thaddeus, and in the lower row St. Francis Xavier, St. Sebastian, St. Gaetano and St. Rochus.

The wind aided temps at this point to drop and we decided to try to find someplace for warmth and a hot drink. We ended up at a counter service for sweets and decided on hot chocolate for our drink and a couple sweets for the road. Heading back to the square we saw St. Vitus church and decided to climb up the stairs for a visit.

Church of Saint Vitus is a Roman Catholic church in Český Krumlov, Czech Republic. It is dedicated to Saint Vitus. It is an important late-Gothic monument built in 1407–1438, with later modifications. In 1995, it was declared a national cultural monument.

In our travels we visit lots of churches and I share photos from them. I can appreciate the history and the art but to be clear, although I love my Roman Catholic friends, my Christian faith differs in practice and beliefs with regards to assurance of salvation, authority of scripture, communion, prayer, intercessors, Mary, Saints, authority of the Pope, etc.

After our walk through this church we made it to the old town square to meet up with our guide and walk back to the bus for our journey back to the Danube (Grein) and dinner on the boat. Before dinner we gathered in the Lark Bar and Lounge for a briefing on our time in Vienna. The AmaMagna would leave this port for Vienna at 9:15 PM. Our arrival in Vienna would be at approximately 2pm on Thursday the 5th of March.

Český Krumlov Part 1

On Wednesday, March 4th, we had a full day excursion to the charming mountain town of Český Krumlov just over the Czech-Austrian border. This was after our short morning tour of Krems.

Our guide grew up in this region and shared his memories of growing up under communism. On our way to our stop, we saw some areas where housing high rises from the past were everywhere.  Current residents were making them more colorful and personal.

We finally reached our destination. From the bus parking lot, the walk to the castle was all uphill and I’m not going to lie, it was a huff and a puff to get there. Thankfully that would be the only uphill trek on this day!

Český Krumlov is a city in the South Bohemia region of the Czech Republic. It’s bisected by the Vltava River, and dominated by its 13th-century castle. The castle has Gothic, Renaissance and baroque elements, an 11-hectare garden and an original 17th-century baroque theater. There are panoramic views of the old town and the river from the top of its round belltower.

We were here in the winter months so the garden wasn’t visited.

Český Krumlov, a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1992. It flourished under the Rosenbergs as a Renaissance hub, transitioning to Baroque under the Eggenbergs and Schwarzenbergs, maintaining its medieval layout largely due to slow industrialization in the 19th century.  In 1938, it was annexed by Nazi Germany and after the Second World War, it was part of Communist Czechoslovakia. In 1992, after the Velvet Revolution, Czech Republic was born, and Český Krumlov is one of its crown jewels in the Bohemian region.

The village below is where we would be spending more time visiting and enjoying lunch on our own. But first, we would enjoy the castle and the castle moat with bears!

Plastovy Bridge or Cloak Bridge.

I know I’ve talked about it before, we were blessed with such great weather on the duration of our cruise!

Architecture and figural paintings relating to mythology and Roman history can be seen on the facades covered with colored sgraffito (geometrical or other motives scratched into wet parquet). We would see many types of sgraffito on buildings as we walked into Old Town, too.

Time to move downward to the outer courts.

You can read more about the history of bear keeping at the castle here.

These days we were told they only bring in old bears that have no where else to be cared for. They are cared for well, here.

We didn’t climb the belltower but it was an option.

From the castle we journeyed on cobbled streets to get to Old Town.

Cobbled streets and narrower alleyways.

After being part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, it became part of Czechoslovakia in 1918. The town suffered minimal damage in the 20th century, preserving its unique, intact medieval and Renaissance architecture.

By this time, I kept looking at my watch thinking it is lunch time. My brain had enough of tour talk and my ears were tired of the ear pieces. You might feel the same way about this post but I’m not done yet, nor was our guide. 🙂

Many precious Gothic and Renaissance frescoes were whitewashed in Baroque times, when the colorful trimmings of earlier periods were out of style. Some of these frescoes are being rediscovered and restored.

Looking up and back at the round bell tower at the Castle from the bridge over the river. This river circles the town.

Finally at the bridge we saw the spot we were interested in for our lunch meal. Our guide wasn’t winding down yet and he was going to keep going all the way to the square in the middle of town. That would be the spot to meet up with him again after our few hours in town by ourselves. We knew we’d be able to find the square with no problem. My feet were saying, “why go all the way to the center of town and then have to double back to this very spot for lunch?” NYET!

We broke away with thoughts of that good lunch and a nice sit down to rest our feet.

I’ll leave it here and give you a break, too. Part deux (french) or dva (czech) coming soon.

Krems, Austria

It is a good thing that I take a lot of photos because seven weeks later I had a hard time figuring out when we had a quick tour of Krems. When I looked back at the photos I saw that the guide we had in Krems was the same guide for Český Krumlov.  Our Wednesday March 4th was a full travel day starting in Austria and moving on by bus to the Czech Republic.

The Trinity Column was erected between 1680 and 1683 as an expression of gratitude for surviving various calamities including war, plague, and fire. The column was commissioned by Johann Franz von Prücklstein und Tobitschau, who served as governor during this period. He wanted to express his thankfulness towards God for ending these disasters which had plagued Krems an der Donau.

This type of monument is commonly found across Central Europe but each one carries its own unique story related to local events or traditions. In case of Dreifaltigkeitssäule in Krems an der Donau it represents deliverance from three major threats: Turkish invasion represented by Ottoman soldiers at base level; Plague depicted through St Sebastian & St Rochus figures; Fire symbolized by St Florian statue.

We started in the town square and one of the first things we learned was that Hitler gave a speech in 1939 on this very balcony. Not a fact that the town is proud of.

Krems an der Donau is the eastern gateway to the Wachau Valley, one of Europe’s loveliest river landscapes. It is also one of the oldest cities in the land. This history extending back more than a thousand years is evident everywhere – in the streets and squares, in the old monasteries and churches, in the town houses and fortifications.

The clock confirms it was in the morning that we visited.

This lion with wings and an open book caught my interest so I zoomed in.

In looking up statues of lions with wings and an open book, it seems this figure is attributed to St. Mark of the Bible. When we were in Woodstock England a few years ago, we saw this kneeler and 3 other kneelers for the 4 Gospels in the Bible as represented in the Book of Kells.

We also saw tile work of the 4 gospels in St. Giles Cathedral in Edinburgh with St. Mark depicted as a lion.

The historical center of Krems is one of the most beautiful in Europe. Over the centuries, builders and architects have created a unique cityscape here that has been lovingly cared for and preserved. These efforts have not gone unnoticed. In 1975 Krems was singled out as a “Model City for Historical Preservation” and in 2000 it was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List.

Our guide took us into this walkway where he showed us this nod to Mozart. The story goes that Mozart spent the night in Krems.

You can click on a button to hear one of his pieces in this courtyard entrance.

It would have been nice to have time to have a snack in one of the cafes in this charming town.

When we got back to the square where we began our walk, I zoomed in to the top of the Trinity Column.

 The column features intricate carvings and statues representing various biblical figures and scenes.

We boarded our bus for the two hour trip to the Český Krumlov. That will be my next Danube River Cruise post.

Our Extravagant Creator

 

We’ve been working on our own personal part of earth for earth day. God was extravagant when he created earth and all it contains for us to enjoy.

Another Wednesday on this earth and Joyce has a fresh set of questions for us. This is Wednesday Hodgepodge.

1. April 22nd is Earth Day…what’s the most ‘out of this world’ place on earth you’ve ever visited? Tell us something about it. 

Greg said, ” When I was ten it was Disneyland.”

yellowstone day one 174

In our adult years I’m going to say Yellowstone or Badlands.

2. A favorite quote, verse, or song lyric with the word earth in it? 

3. What’s the most trivial thing about which you have a strong opinion? 

Where to park at Wal-Mart.

4. What’s your most commonly used kitchen utensil or tool? What’s the last thing you made using that tool? 

I’m going to say my Chefs Knife. I made roasted vegetables for our family meal last Friday and the onions and potatoes and carrots needed to be cut. I also used it to cut ham to throw into our breakfast egg scramble on Saturday. I love a good sharp Chefs knife! I like all sorts of knives.

5. Marilyn (Memphis Bridges) gave me a great book of 3000 questions, and I’m going to try to use one in our Hodgepodge every week. Here is today’s – 

What is your greatest extravagance? 

Our trips lately have been extravagant. Extravagance to me is something above and beyond and luxurious. These days I don’t like to penny pinch when we are traveling.

Nice hotels and nice restaurants are my choice. That is not to say we don’t enjoy a nice pub or cafe mixed in during travel. There was a time when we penny pinched and stayed in some sleazy motels and I have stories to tell.

I also am quite happy to be extravagant with our family.

6. Insert your own random thought here. 

Speaking of the beauty of our earth. I’ll be getting back to our daily travel spots during our Danube River Cruise on Thursday, Lord willing.

Looking forward to your answers this week.