Continuing our travel journal from our trip from the Danube to Cambridge in March of 2026.
On Wednesday morning March 11th we walked to Bill’s Cambridge restaurant for breakfast before our train ride to Ely.
I know those are poached eggs but I honestly can’t remember what I ordered that came in that skillet…maybe potatoes of some kind. Oye.
After breakfast we called a taxi to take us to the train station for a short trip to Ely. Once we arrived we walked over to another taxi to take us to the cathedral. When the taxi driver asked me where we wanted to go, I said, “Ely”. He said, “Well you are already in Ely so where else would you like to go?” Ha! We talked about soccer and his favorite team that wasn’t doing too well, Spurs.
- Ely is the second smallest city in England. The small town grew up around the monastery and Cathedral which dominated the Isle of Ely for centuries.
I’m sharing the outside of the cathedral first and the inside will be another post.
The history of Ely can be read here.
Why were we interested in seeing Ely Cathedral? We first heard of Ely through the author Elizabeth Goudge.
Elizabeth Goudge was a celebrated 20th-century English author who spent her formative years living at Ely Cathedral, where her father served as a canon. This historic Cambridgeshire setting deeply influenced her writing, inspiring her iconic 1960 novel, The Dean’s Watch as well as A City of Bells.
We both read The Dean’s Watch and it was one of my favorites of Goudge’s books.
We bought this copy of The Dean’s Watch in a used bookstore in Chipping Campden in September of 2013.
A quote from The Dean’s Watch by Miss Montague,
“How much more friendly it is when you cannot see, thought Miss Montague, and how much closer we are to Him. Why should we always want a light? He chose darkness for us, darkness of the womb and of the stable, darkness in the garden, darkness on the cross and in the grave. Why do I demand certainty? That is not faith. Why do I want to understand? How can I understand this great web of sin and ugliness and love and suffering and joy and life and death when I don’t understand the little tangle of good and evil that is myself? I’ve enough to understand. I understand that He gave me light that I might turn to Him, for without light I could not have seen to turn. I have seen creation in His light. He shared His light with me that I, turned, might share with Him the darkness of His redemption. Why did I despair? What do I want? If it is Him I want He is here, not only love in light illuming all that He has made but love in darkness dying for it…And she said, I will learn to pray.”
My next post will be of the inside of this magnificent cathedral.
The Happy Wonderer ~ ellen b. 
I have heard good things about Bills and that breakfast looks good! Ely looks a wonderful place to visit. Fantastic photos!
Oh, this is very special! I think Miss Montague is my most favorite person in all of Goudge’s novels. Thank you for sharing, and I look forward to seeing the inside of Ely Cathedral too.
Sara, My memory fails me but I’m wondering if it was you who recommended Goudge to us?
Quite possibly; she’s been my favorite author since the 1980’s and I tried to share the beauty of her writing whenever I could. ♥️
The Dean’s Watch was the first of Goudge’s books I read, found on my father’s bookshelf, originally belonging to my grandfather. When my daughter and I visited Britain we spent time at Wells Cathedral — and slept in a lodging with a view of the Cathedral ❤ — because it also figured in Goudge’s childhood; but we didn’t make it to Ely, unfortunately.
Those English breakfasts are such a boon to travelers! One thing I liked about the B&B’s we stayed in was the way that substantial breakfasts were included, so that no matter how much hiking and trekking around we did, we had plenty of energy for it until evening.
I’m looking forward to seeing the inside of Ely Cathedral!
What a wonderful way to discover Goudge through your father and grandfather. Sweet to visit Wells with your daughter, too. We visited Wells with our Son and DIL in 2013 because of the connection to Goudge, also. I like having those connections that make you look deeper and enjoy a destination deeper. I love traveling with our children. Cheers!
I enjoy your blog, especially the posts regarding your travels. While England is not on this year’s list to visit, Dublin is. If you were to revisit Dublin, would you patronize the two restaurants you mention: The Stag’s Head, and the Church? When we travel, we enjoy eating the cuisine of the country we are visiting. Both will be in reasonable walking distance of either our hotel or one of the sites we will visit.
I cannot wait to tour Trinity and also enjoy Vespers at St Patrick’s.
Blessings to you as you enjoy your family and each season of your life!
Hi Vera, We would definitely recommend The Church. The Pub we’d recommend that our taxi cab driver recommended would be The Celt. I remember it better than the Stag. I hope you’ll have a wonderful trip. BTW, I have a sister named Vera. Slainte!
More impressive photos. I’ve never read any of Elizabeth Goudge’s books. I’ll have to check her out.
…Greg’s breakfast looks amazing!!!
That’s quite the cathedral. Looking forward to seeing the inside.
The photos of Ely Cathedral are gorgeous, Ellen. I like Elizabeth Goudge’s books, too, and haven’t read The Dean’s Watch for many years. Time to revisit that.
Hello, Ellen
The breakfast looks yummy! The cathedral is beautiful. Take care, enjoy your day and happy weekend.
Awesome photos!!! Magnificent cathedral and I look forward to seeing inside. Your breakfasts look delicious by the way. I was introduced to Elizabeth Gouge several years ago by Sara. I will never forget her kindness when she sent me a book in her collection. I had written a post on my village and Sara told me that Elizabeth had lived there during WWII, which I was delighted to read about. The Smoky House was just down the road from where I lived from 1965 to 1975. Thank you for another delightful post from your travels. Wishing you a very happy weekend.
So, we both were introduced to Goudge through Sara! How sweet that is. Bloggy world is a small world, indeed. What fun to learn that you lived in the same village!
Feasting with a view of history! The gothic arches and academic arcs of Cambridge are straight out of a fairytale!
My brother used to live in Ely so I have visited a few times. The cathedral is stunning and it’s a pretty town. B x